Haven't been keeping this updated...

Did some work recently:

• Replaced Crank Position Sensor (CPS)
• Discovered coolant leak from head gasket. Retorqued to resolve.
• Discovered failed Boost Pressure Controller valve. 

I'll start with the CPS. The others will be in follow-up posts.
 
Crank Position Sensor
Symptoms: The poor car would buck and misfire like mad when under load at high (over 4k) rpms. 

First, I replaced the Direct Ignition Cassette (DIC). The car came with a black DIC (go ahead, laugh, I'll wait. Out of your system now? Good...) The black one is correct for the T7 engines, 2000 and newer. Not the T5 engine I have. So I ordered a red DIC. Misfiring issues are often caused by a failing DIC, but the only way to test is to swap with a known good part. Unfortunately, it didn't solve the problem. My black DIC is saved now as a spare. 

At that point, I realized I really just needed the ability to pull the trouble codes. In most areas, auto parts stores will pull your codes for free. Not so in California. Apparently they're not allowed to do this any longer here. So I had to break down and buy a code reader. I bought an Actron PocketScan.  It was $60, and definitely worth it.

Reading the codes showed me misfires (obviously) as well as a failed Crank Position Sensor. The CPS was flaking out at higher RPMs. Online it would be around $60 for a new one, but I was kinda in a hurry. So I paid $120 for one from Autozone.

Installation should have been a breeze:

1. Remove heat shield from exhaust manifold.
2. Remove heat shield from CPS.
3. Use torx bit to remove CPS. 
4. Replace.

However, the bolt on the CPS was stripped. I couldn't get a bite with a torx bit. After fighting it, I finally ended up removing the exhaust downpipe, and using a dremel to grind off the head of the bolt. I replaced the bolt with a normal hex head when I installed the new CPS.

Runs perfect!